Monday, April 04, 2011

On to Kochi (Cocina), Kerala...

Journal 3, 02.28.2011
We headed to Kochi (Fort Cochin) after our first few days of resting and seeing the sights in the small river town of Kottayam, Kerala, where life is slower and less populated. Starting out in Kottayam was good way to ease into life in India. (Thanks Kiran for planning and making these arrangements for us!) Before leaving the accommodating Backwater Retreat House, we downed our pots of milk coffee and packed our bags. A large and comfortable SUV had been ordered for us and our luggage fit with no problem.  Felicia and I brought 4 pieces of luggage since we were bringing sewing supplies, material for puppet-making, and gift items to leave in India. So along with Susie and Lindsey's luggage, we had quite a haul. It was a treat to ride in comfort with A/C vents on the ceiling in front of us and an amazing sound system!  The driver played 1990's American pop tunes ... like the Backstreet Boys and old school rap.  Good times...car dancing.  
As we traveled, Felicia and I kept seeing big old red phones along the way.

On the way to Cocina, Felicia shared the longer version of her story.  I think Lindsey and Susie were surprised to hear of her difficult life experiences and how they affect her even today. Felicia is so courageous and taking huge steps out of her comfort zone.  I am so proud of her and my respect has grown for her since coming to India.  Her desire and ability to remain self-controlled in the midst of exhaustion and chaos challenges and encourages me.























Kochi (long known as Cochin) 
is considered Kerala's prime tourist destination, spreading across islands and peninsulas between the Arabian Sea and the backwaters.  The more modern towns and the old districts, like Fort Cochin to the west, are linked by ferries and bridges. We visited the older areas - taking in spice markets, Jew Town, the Cochin Synagogue dating back to the 1500's, Chinese fishing boats and nets, mosques, seventeenth-century Dutch homes and colonial-era architecture, Thali and Dosai Indian fare and more exciting auto-rickshaw rides.

Upon arriving in the bigger city of Cochin, we stopped briefly at a local bakery and bought some ladoo (sweets made from small balls of gram flour and semolina colored orange and yellow sugar), jalebi (orange and yellow colored flour batter piped out into a swirly pattern and which is deep fried and soaked in sugar syrup), and halwa (traditional sweet biscuits made from lentils, nuts and fruit, baked in a large tray and cut into small squares and loaded with lots of frosting).  I can handle really sweet and rich desserts, but Indian desserts are over the top sweet.  We bought water every where we went.  We were always thirsty.  And as usual, I sweat-ed a lot.


Our next stop was Hotel Abad. After checking in we headed out to shop for clothes to wear...first checking out an area down by the coast which catered to tourists.  I finally found a pair of pants and a top that I liked at the first shop. Karuna needed a nap, so Lindsey and Susie headed back to the hotel.  Fe and I found Jew Town and continued shopping, our first time alone since arriving in India.  Young, handsome Muslim men wooed us non-stop to come into their shops..."Oh, you have such beautiful eyes...I have a special deal just for you!..."




We especially enjoyed visiting a shop named Spice World, a business that is part of a co-operative owned by 40 families.  A lot of sweet young ladies greeted us and showed us around.  
There was a large loom in the back which an older woman was working on.  They showed us the fabrics made on the loom which they were wearing as well...cotton sarees trimmed in gold and various colors.  We purchased the muslim-colored sarees accented in pink (Fe) and purple (me).  Measurements were taken to have custom fit blouses made to match.  We purchased a pair of matching ankle bracelets, one for each of us.  Indians wear two though.  Married women wear two toe rings as well on the second digit.



We had not eaten lunch so on arriving back at Hotel Abad all of us took a rickshaw auto to the scenic Anchor Hotel Restaurant by Fort Cocina port where many fishing boats were docked. It was relaxing to sit outside by the sea and recoup.  Karuna sang songs to us...her preciousness melting our hearts.  I strayed away from Indian food since there were other options on the menu.  The British prepared fish & chips were delish - so fresh!




 After a long day of travel, shopping and heat, we were ready to head to bed early.  Reflecting on my day, I realize that those frustrations and struggles I have being here are not so much because of a different culture and the language barrier. It was the constant noise, horns honking, the busyness of our days filled with alot a chatter, questions and dickering over prices that seemed to be irritating me.  At home I live in a wooded area by a large lake.  I like the sound of silence...the birds singing, walking on trails in the woods. I do not feel the need to fill in the quiet spaces with small talk, constant discussions...and I am happy to be alone.  So in that sense, India was a shock to my hearing senses.  My daily prayer became..."Lord, give me patience with those who you have placed in my life today.  Help me to be kind and considerate, not grumpy and irritable.  Help me Lord, to please you in what I say, do and think.  Help me to surrender my need for comfort to you each moment I am tempted to gripe or complain.  I long to be a light for you and offer HOPE to those you bring along my path.  You are gracious and loving and kind...and I thank you for loving me!"

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